“The frost is on the pumpkin.”

Sure, we've all heard that expression (haven't we, class?) It comes from the title of a famous poem (well famous to us American lit. majors) by James Whitcomb Riley, a short bit of doggerel that begins like this:

When the frost is on the punkin and the fodder's in the shock...

I don't know about the fodder being in the shock, but I sure am. I finally took my summer vacation last week, down on Cape Cod in Massachusetts. Where the temperature was 20° below normal, the state was recording its earliest ever snowfall, and the frost was definitely on the punkin.

I'd envisioned mild 65°F days, gentle breezes, and lots of sun. And experienced instead a succession of gray/dark gray/darker gray days; and a Nor'easter packing 45mph winds (and kicking up 15' seas).

It was pretty; it was spectacular; in fact, it was pretty spectacular. But warm enough to walk the golden sands? Not without successive layers of wool, fleece, and Gore-Tex.

The cold weather did inspire me to think ahead, though, to my favorite baking holiday: Thanksgiving.  Between the soft white dinner rolls, cranberry muffins, stuffing bread, and pie, I get to cover my favorite carb groups all in one glorious day.

Thanksgiving Baking Guide


Flavors of the season

Do you like cinnamon? I do. And I love the assertive flavor of our Cinnamon Sweet Bits. I know, wacky name (and yes, they look like pet kibble); but these little nuggets of sugar, flour, and cinnamon pack a healthy hit of cinnamon.

Combine the following in a mixing bowl:

  • 1 cup (227g) pumpkin purée
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup (106g) brown sugar, packed
  • 3 tablespoons (35g) vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon (21g) molasses
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Apple Pie Spice or Pumpkin Pie Spice; or 1/4 teaspoon cloves + 1/4 teaspoon ginger + 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup (113g) milk
  • 1 cup (170g) cinnamon chips or 1 cup (142g) cinnamon sweet bits

img_2428.jpg

Stir till smooth, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl to combine thoroughly.

img_2430.jpg

Next you'll combine the dry ingredients, starting with 1 1/2 cups of flour. We like a combination of all-purpose and white whole wheat flours. Use all AP (for a higher rise), or all white whole wheat (for more fiber and a lower rise), if desired. I've decided on 3/4 cup (85g) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour, and 3/4 cup (85g) King Arthur White Whole Wheat Flour.

Notice the AP flour on the top, whole wheat on the bottom; very little difference in look or texture, eh? That's because white whole wheat is a lighter, milder whole wheat flour than its red-wheat counterpart. I often use it in muffins and cookies, because you really can't tell the difference; try anywhere from 50% to 100% of the total flour.

img_2432.jpg

Add 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, and 1 cup (113g) dried cranberries. Whisk to combine.

Add to the wet ingredients, and then stir to combine.

img_2437.jpg

No need to beat; stirring with a spatula is fine.

img_2505.jpg

Cover the bowl, and let the batter rest for 30 minutes, while you preheat your oven to 400°F. You'll notice the leavening has started to work during this resting period; the batter will have lightened and become a bit “spongy.”

img_2504.jpg

Grease 12 wells of a standard muffin pan; or line with papers, and grease the papers.

Note: This recipe makes a generous amount of batter. If the cups in your your muffin pan are on the small side, you may have to bake a couple of extra muffins in a second batch. OR cut back the cranberries and chips to 2/3 cup each. The pan I'm using here has cups that are 2 5/8” across the inside top, 1 3/8” deep.

img_2506.jpg

Deposit the batter by the generous 1/4-cupful (a slightly heaped muffin scoop works well here) into the prepared pan. If you have a scale, each muffin will be about 90g, about 3 1/8 ounces.

Next, choose your topping sugar. I love Swedish pearl sugar. It's bright-white, and makes a big visual statement.

img_2451.jpg

Here's pearl sugar on the left, coarse white sparkling sugar, my decorating standby, on the right. The pearl's a tiny bit bigger.

img_2511.jpg

Sprinkle the top of each muffin with about 1/2 teaspoon sugar.

img_2448.jpg

Here's the sparkling sugar going on – right out of the jar. I usually don't bother to measure; just sprinkle till the top of each muffin is completely coated.

img_2517.jpg

Place the muffins in the preheated 400°F oven. Yeah, there's one missing here; I was doing some kind of experiment, the nature of which now escapes me...

img_2518.jpg

Bake the muffins for 20 to 21 minutes, till a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the middle of a center muffin comes out clean.

img_2466.jpg

They'll rise nicely. Notice this muffin is topped with both pearl and sparkling sugars; can't help myself, I'm a confirmed “what if” type of baker.

img_2528.jpg

Tip the muffins in the pan to cool; this prevents their bottoms from steaming and becoming soggy.

img_2469.jpg

Now that's one good-looking muffin, huh?

img_2456.jpg

Here's what happens if you don't give the muffin batter a rest prior to baking. The taller, “rested batter” muffin is on the left; non-rested on the right. The rest both softens the Flav-R-Bites, if you use them; and gives the baking powder and baking soda a chance to get going.

img_2492.jpg

Here's one with a plain coarse sugar topping. I love the glitter of sparkling sugar.

img_2484.jpg

And here they are, in all their sugar-topped incarnations - even some plain Janes without. Trust me, they're all good.

And if our taste-testers here at King Arthur are any indication, they'll disappear fast!

Read, rate, and review (please!) our recipe for Thanksgiving Muffins.

Jump to Comments
Filed Under: Recipes
A headshot of PJ Hamel and her dogs
The Author

About PJ Hamel

PJ Hamel grew up in New England, graduated from Brown University, and was an award-winning Maine journalist (favorite topics: sports and food) before joining King Arthur Flour in 1990. Hired to write the newly launched Baker’s Catalogue, PJ became the small but growing company’s sixth employee.    ...
View all by PJ Hamel