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To make the dough: In a large bowl, mix together the flour, salt, and yeast until well combined. Add the water and oil. Mix until thoroughly combined and homogeneous; don’t be afraid to stir vigorously to incorporate the dry ingredients. If the dough feels dry, add a scant tablespoon of water.
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Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 15 minutes.
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Perform a bowl fold: Uncover the dough and use a wet hand to grab a section of dough from one side, lift it up, then press it down into the middle. Repeat, turning the bowl 90° (a quarter turn) after each stretch, three to six times total, until the dough won’t elongate easily. Turn the dough over, placing it seam-side down in the bowl.
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Cover and let it rest at room temperature for 15 minutes.
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Repeat the bowl fold. After the second bowl fold, the dough should be smoother and feel tighter. Cover the dough and allow it to rest at room temperature for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until it’s slightly puffy but not necessarily doubled in size. (The dough can be covered tightly and transferred to the refrigerator to rest for 8 to 24 hours after the second bowl fold, before the room temperature rest. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature for 1 hour before proceeding with the recipe.)
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To make the sauce: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Stir in the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
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Add the tomatoes, sugar, and salt and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until the sauce has reduced significantly; you should have about 3 cups of sauce.
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Add additional salt to taste. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Use immediately or transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate for up to 5 days.
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To assemble and bake the pizza: Grease a Detroit-style pizza pan or a 9" x 13" pan with the oil.
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Transfer the dough to the pan and stretch to fill the pan. Arrange the pan so a long side is facing you. Lightly oil your hands, then gently fold the bottom third of the dough up toward the center. Fold the top third down to cover, like you’re folding a business letter. Starting at one end and using your fingertips, decisively dimple the dough from end to end, pressing firmly until you feel the bottom of the pan but not so hard that you tear through the dough, stretching the dough into the edges of the pan as you dimple. If the dough resists, cover it, let it rest for 30 minutes, and try again.
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Cover the pan and let the dough rise at warm room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, until puffy. During the last hour of the rise, position a rack in the bottom third of the oven. Place a baking steel or stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 500°F.
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Slide the pan onto the steel or stone and bake until the dough has set but has barely taken on any color, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven.
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Starting at the edges of the pan, sprinkle a thick layer of brick cheese where the dough meets the pan edge; it will sizzle on contact with the pan. Once you’ve made this cheese moat, distribute the remaining cheese across the interior of the dough.
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Using about 1 1/3 cups (roughly 300g) of sauce (reserve the remainder for another use), spoon thick stripes on the diagonal on top of the cheese layer. Distribute pepperoni on top, if desired.
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Return the pizza to the oven and bake until the edges are deeply colored and crisp, 12 to 14 minutes.
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Remove the pan from the oven and run a dull knife or nylon spreader around the edge of the pan to loosen the pizza from the edge. With courage and conviction (and a large spatula to aid you), immediately slide the pizza out of the pan onto a wire rack (this will prevent it from steaming in the pan and losing its crisp crust). Let cool for a few minutes, then sprinkle with the pecorino and red pepper flakes, if using. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into squares.
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Storage information: Store leftover Detroit pizza in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Reheat in a 350°F oven until warm throughout, 10 to 15 minutes.
