Pâte à Choux

To make the choux pastry: Combine the water, butter, and salt in a large saucepan. Place the saucepan over medium-high heat to melt the butter and bring the mixture to a boil.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour all at once, stirring vigorously with a sturdy spoon or stiff spatula.

Return the pan to medium heat briefly, stirring until the mixture smooths out and starts to steam; this should take less than a minute. The batter will be very thick and shiny at this stage.

Remove the pan from the heat and let the thick batter cool, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes. It'll still feel hot, but you should be able to hold a finger in it for a few seconds; if you have a digital thermometer the temperature should be below 125°F.

To finish the choux pastry by hand: Once cool, mix the eggs into the warm mixture in the saucepan one at a time. Be sure to incorporate each egg fully before adding the next one; the mixture will slosh around a bit initially, but will come together into a smooth, shiny paste after a dozen or so stirs. Mix for about 2 minutes after adding the last egg.

To finish the choux pastry with an electric mixer: Alternatively, transfer the warm butter-water-flour mixture to a large bowl or the bowl of your stand mixer. Beat in the eggs one at a time on medium speed, waiting until each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next. Beat for about a minute after adding the last egg.

To bake with choux pastry: At this point your pastry is ready to scoop, pipe, or spread, and then bake. Follow the instructions for doing so in the recipe you’ve chosen to make.