The cozy flavors of apples and cinnamon are too good to use only in sweet, squishy breads and desserts. They can bring warmth and richness to crusty, tangy hearth bread, too. In this enriched sourdough loaf, dried apples deliver lots of apple flavor without excess moisture. They’re rolled into the dough along with cinnamon and grated butter to create a beautiful, rich swirl. The sour notes and the touch of whole wheat flour keep this loaf from being too sweet: It makes excellent nut butter-slathered toast and exemplary grilled cheese sandwiches (use sharp cheddar and sliced apple), but it’s also flavorful enough to require no accompaniments whatsoever.
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To make the preferment: In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, water, and sourdough starter and mix until homogenous.
Cover and set aside at room temperature to rise for 12 to 16 hours (overnight works well), until roughly doubled in size.
To prepare the soaker: In a medium bowl, combine the hot water and apples and set aside until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Strain the apples, reserving the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the apples so that no pieces are larger than 1" in size.
To make the dough: In a large bowl, whisk the flours and salt. Set aside.
Measure 3/4 cup (170g) of the apple soaking liquid and add it to the preferment, stirring to combine.
Add the preferment mixture to the dry ingredients and stir, using the handle of a wooden spoon or a bowl scraper, until fully combined and homogenous, about 2 minutes. Cover the bowl and place it in a warm spot (72°F to 78°F) to rest for 15 minutes.
To perform the bowl folds: With a wet hand, stretch the dough upward from the side, and press into the middle to seal. Repeat this motion six to eight times, until you’ve made a full circle around the bowl or container and the dough resists stretching. Cover and allow the dough to rest for 15 minutes. Perform a second bowl fold, then set the dough aside for another 15 minutes.
To laminate the dough: Transfer the dough to a well-moistened surface and gently stretch and press it into a 12" square of mostly even thickness. Use a bowl scraper to ensure no parts of the dough stick to the surface.
Distribute the soaked apples over the dough, then sift over the cinnamon and cocoa powder.
Use the large holes of a box grater to grate the cold butter over the top in an even layer.
Starting at the far edge of the dough, roll it toward yourself to form a tube.
Roll the tube up from one end to another to form a loose coil, then return to the bowl, smooth side up.
Cover the bowl and allow the dough to rise in a warm spot for 2 to 3 hours, until marshmallowy.
To shape the loaf: Invert the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Pat into an oval or round, then gently shape into a tight bâtard or boule, adding some tension without tearing the loaf.
Place the loaf in an 8" or 9" floured cloth-lined round or oval brotform and proof at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, until the dough looks inflated and active, or cover tightly and refrigerate overnight.
About 1 hour before baking, preheat the oven to 475°F with a lidded Dutch oven (or other covered baking vessel) on the center rack. If your dough has been refrigerated, transfer it to the counter to temper while the oven preheats. (Alternatively, place a baking stone or steel on the center rack of the oven with an empty cast iron skillet below. Adjust the pan so that it isn’t directly under the stone, making it easier for steam to reach the baking bread.)
To bake the bread: Gently turn the proofed loaf out of the brotform and onto a piece of parchment. Fold up the sides of the parchment slightly to help contain any leaking butter (a small amount of leaking is normal during the baking process).
Quickly score the top with a lame and transfer to the oven. If baking in a Dutch oven, remove the lid, use the parchment to lower the loaf into the hot baking vessel, then immediately cover with the lid and return to the oven. If baking on a stone or steel, quickly transfer the loaf, parchment and all, to the hot stone or steel. Once you’ve placed the bread in the oven, pour about 1 cup (227g) boiling water into the cast iron skillet. Steam will billow from the pan upward to envelop the baking bread; be sure to wear good oven mitts to shield your hands and arms. Quickly close the oven door to trap the steam.
Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 425°F. Bake for 20 minutes then remove the lid (if using a lidded baker), and bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until dark brown and crusty.
Remove the loaf from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool completely before slicing.
Storage information: Store Apple Cinnamon Sourdough Bread, loosely wrapped at room temperature, for up to several days; freeze for longer storage.
