Although summer doesn't officially begin until June 21, I've always considered Memorial Day the real kickoff to the season.

Having put away the fleece (at last) and resurrected the outdoor furniture from its winter hideaway in the cellar, I'm ready to kick back on the deck, throw some burgers on the grill, and soak up some rays.

More than ready, after the challenging season we've just experienced here in northern New England. Record-breaking snowfall this winter was followed by a "spring" that offered very little in the way of sunshine, LOTS in the way of rain.

Read: dirt roads turned into mud baths, and spring flowers going from colorful to drooping and rusty brown within the space of a day or so.

So far, we've had 3 days of sunshine this month. We're more than due for some good weather this Memorial Day weekend – are you listening, Mother Nature?

Summer's heat would be very welcome right about now. As would summer's cold: ice cream.

While there's no real ice cream season in New England (more ice cream is consumed in New England, per capita, than in any other region of the country, according to Wikipedia), nothing beats sitting at a picnic table in the last golden glow of a hot summer day, alternating licks of smooth ice cream with bites of crunchy cone.

And ice cream doesn't have to mean a $3.50 cone at your local stand. Or artificial flavors, guar gum, or any of the other ingredients typically found in the average supermarket ice cream.

It's easy to make your own ice cream – or frozen yogurt, which is far removed from what you'd buy at the store. Tangy-sweet and super-creamy, it can be flavored to taste with vanilla (of course), other flavors (butter rum? maple?), or with your favorite fruits.

Despite appearances (and mouth-feel) to the contrary, the following frozen yogurt is made with low-fat yogurt. The secret? Draining it to make thick, Greek-style yogurt before adding the sugar and flavors, and freezing.

Sure, it won't be as low-fat as the original yogurt, since the fats have been concentrated into a smaller volume. But you can still feel virtuous about the high-quality dairy (and calcium) you're enjoying.

Let's start with the yogurt. You can make your own; or use store-bought yogurt. The key, though, is to thicken it by draining away the whey.

The yogurt on the left is just as it comes from the carton; pretty thin. On the right, yogurt that's been drained - Greek-style, in other words.

Can you purchase Greek-style yogurt, and skip the draining?

Sure. But it can get pretty pricey. Let me show you an initial investment that really pays off, if you love yogurt - for cooking or baking, as a stand-in for sour cream in dips and spreads, or for just plain eating.

Meet the Wave. This yogurt strainer has been one of my favorite kitchen tools for years.

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.

•The Wave takes regular plain yogurt – anything from full-cream to nonfat – and makes it thick, creamy, and spreadable, in just 24 hours or less.
•I can scoop an entire 32-ounce container of yogurt into the Wave at once. (It does mound over the top a bit, as you can see above; but it quickly settles enough to snap on the lid.)
•The Wave’s completely hands-off, as well as mess-free – no sodden, ripped coffee filters; no dripping cheesecloth bags.
•It’s a handy storage container; yogurt continues to thicken as it stands – even when you add chopped cukes to make tzatziki.
•When you’re done with it, the Wave rinses clean easily in hot, soapy water.

Here's the Wave about an hour after adding 32 ounces of yogurt.

Ready for its cover. Place in the fridge, and check back the next day.

Zounds! Look how thick it is already.

Any difference between starting with low-fat vs. nonfat yogurt? That's the whey from low-fat yogurt on the left, nonfat on the right - there's more liquid in nonfat.

So, here's the result, 24 hours later: 32 ounces of low-fat yogurt translates to 1 1/2 cups of liquid, and about 2 cups of thick, Greek-style yogurt.

What can you do with the liquid? Bake some bread, using it in place of water. Whey is full of protein, vitamins, and minerals.

So, you've got your 2 cups of thickened yogurt; let's freeze it.

First: make sure the bucket of your ice cream maker is thoroughly frozen. It's a good idea to stick it in the freezer at the same time you put your yogurt in the fridge to drain; both will be ready to go the next day.

Mix 2 cups (1 pint, 16 ounces) drained yogurt or Greek-style (thick) yogurt with 1/2 cup sugar. Your best choice here is superfine Baker's Special sugar; it'll dissolve quickly in the yogurt. Use granulated sugar if you like; just be sure to stir it in thoroughly.

Add 2 to 3 teaspoons vanilla extract; I'm using Vanilla Bean Crush here, as the flecks of seed and pod are a nice visual.

Next, stir in 2 tablespoons light corn syrup or honey. This liquid sweetener will help smooth the yogurt's texture.

Spoon the yogurt into the bucket of your ice cream maker.

Freeze according to the manufacturer's directions. You'll see it start to thicken almost immediately.

Creamy, smooth, thick...

Let the machine go until the yogurt's as thick as you like – 20 to 30 minutes is the norm for most machines.

Serve frozen yogurt immediately, if you like; here I've drizzled it with additional Vanilla Bean Crush.

You can also transfer the frozen yogurt to a storage container, and place it in the freezer for several hours, if you prefer harder ice cream. It'll eventually become rock hard, but never fear; about 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature makes it nicely scoopable again.

Strawberry sundae, anyone?

And for you non-fans of corn syrup – I made this version with honey. Plus I added 2 tablespoons spiced rum, which helps keep frozen yogurt a bit softer and creamier than it would otherwise be. Drizzle with honey for a can't-resist treat.

Oh, one last note: you might be tempted to start with a flavored yogurt. Say, vanilla, or lemon, or maple. But I've found there's something about flavored yogurts that prevent them from draining and thickening as nicely as plain yogurt. My advice: start with plain, and flavor to taste.

Interested in more ice cream recipes? Check out Strawberry Sorbet, Dairy-Free Coconut Milk Frozen TreatsMocha Madness, Chocolate Decadence, and Pineapple-Coconut Gelato.

Read, make, and review (please) our recipe for Frozen Vanilla Yogurt.

Filed Under: Recipes
PJ Hamel
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About PJ Hamel

PJ Hamel grew up in New England, graduated from Brown University, and was a Maine journalist before joining King Arthur Flour in 1990. PJ bakes and writes from her home on Cape Cod, where she enjoys beach-walking, her husband, three dogs, and really good food!

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